Archive for the ‘Food’ Category


The benefits of organic food production

Friday, July 31st, 2009

The Food Standards Agency yesterday published some research which claimed that organic food offers no extra nutritional benefits when compared with conventionally produced food. 

Their aim, they suggest, is to enable consumers to make "an informed choice".

Have these researchers been living in a cave, with nothing to sustain them other than a few berries and nuts?  I don't think that the majority of people who eat organic food think that it's going to make them healthier.  They don't eat organic broccoli thinking that its stuffed full of nutrients that just aren't there in non-organic brocolli.

They eat it, I think, because they think that farming non-intensively, without routine use of pesticides, is a better way to produce food – better for us (in a wider health and wellbeing sense), better for wildlife, better for the long-term health of the planet.  And it's not just about not using pesticides – it's often about a whole different approach to linking consumers, farmers and food.

You can read the Soil Association's response to the research here.  

I thought I'd pop down to Swillington Organic Farm to see what they thought of the research.  There were plenty of customers there who've clearly made up their own mind, and who frankly don't need second-rate FSA research to help them to make an informed choice.  Here's what the Farm's Organic Apprentice thinks the benefits are of the way they farm at Swillington:


More of what I want

Tuesday, July 28th, 2009

I've just been out for an hour on my bike.  I have a nice little circular route which I ride regularly, with a few good hills and some nice greenery.  I'm trying to cycle more at the moment for a few reasons.  

One is to get fit and lose weight (having never had to worry about that kind of thing I've noticed the beginnings of middle-age expansion recently).  Another is to be a bit more eco – if I'm fitter I'm more likely to use the car less.  And the final one is that I'm pretty demotivated by a lot of what I do at the moment – so an hour's bike ride tricks my brain into stimulus (and is better than sitting at my desk looking at my Google stats).

There's a farm shop half way round my bike ride, so I often stop there to buy a bit of veg.  They're really friendly and have some tasty veg.  Obviously now is prime time for tasty summer produce:

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(I like the way the woman is staring at me, probably thinking I'm some kind of freak)

I then continue through Fulneck and then down into the centre of Pudsey.  I stopped at the lights and noticed the following:

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I'm in prime position to win £100 for the most debated post of the month in the Bloggers Circle.  That post praised supermarkets for their efforts to reduce plastic bag use.  So, just to show I'm not going soft, here's a post having a go at a supermarket.  The fact that they call their store Local just shows how messed up our food and shopping cultures are.  And no, Sainsburys, your store isn't bulging with all the things I want.  I don't want onions from New Zealand, or green beans from Zambia.  I want cauliflowers from Pudsey please.


Eggs for breakfast

Thursday, July 16th, 2009

One of the things I'm challenging myself on as a result of getting involved in the climate change group is my love of clever bits of technology.  My latest purchase – as you may have guessed from the videos that are starting to appear on the blog – is a small video camera.  It's great – and came highly recommended by the Social Reporter, David Wilcox.  I like it because it's small and unobtrusive – the size of a mobile phone –  and doesn't really get in the way of normal conversations.

I need to work on my technique a bit (mainly to nod in encouragement instead of muttering away constantly in the background) but I like it as a way of getting messages across.

I was at Swillington Organic Farm yesterday doing a few short videos.  Our idea is to give people a real insight into what it's like behind the scenes at the farm.  Here's our first film – about their free-range laying hens.  And if you know anything about free range, you'll know there's free range and there's really free range.  I think you'll see from the film that Swillington's hens have all the room a hen could wish for.


The Innocent Way

Thursday, March 12th, 2009

Just back from a talk by Richard Reed, one of the three guys who set up innocent drinks.  

I like innocent, although if I'm honest, not quite as much as I used to.  A couple of years ago you could probably have called me a disciple, such was my loyalty to their brand.  I didn't buy their smoothies so often, but I was a big fan of the way they wrote about themselves.  I've written about it before so won't go on.

I still like them, and it was a good talk.  I like the way they try to do business, their commitment to doing the right thing ethically and environmentally, and the cheeky chat on their bottles.  I like the way they really try hard to live their values – so that they're not just words on a wall.  I was particularly interested this evening to hear how they tried to work out what it would mean to stick to their values whilst making 25 people redundant – as they had to last year.

But I'm aware that I'm not so in love with them as I once was.  There's been the odd label – and the odd newsletter story – that's started to feel a bit formulaic.  I've noticed it with other similar brands too – I love howies clothes, but equally their we'd all rather be surfing chat on their labels is starting to grate.  

Getting your tone of voice right is tough.  I find it easy on the blog, but harder in my newsletter.  Perhaps because the newsletter is  partly about selling – come to this workshop, read this blog post – I find it harder to get the tone right.  It must be so much harder as a business expands.  

The thing I liked the most was his response to the question I'd wanted to ask – how you stay true to your values as you grow.  He reckons that they're more innocent-like than they've ever been – because they now have to work hard at making the values mean something.  When they were small, it just happened.  Now they have to work at it.  Food for thought for all of us who talk about how values matter in a business.  

Cadbury’s Dairy Milk and Fairtrade

Thursday, March 12th, 2009

Cadbury's Dairy Milk has long been a secret pleasure of mine.  If I'm out and about and need a quick sugar hit, and there's nothing vaguely ethical to be had, then Dairy Milk tends to be my choice.  Francis's stash of chocolate buttons never seems to last that long either.

So it's interesting to read that within a few months all Dairy Milk sold in the UK will contain Fairtrade-certified cocoa – including some from the Kuapa Kokoo co-op which part-owns Divine Chocolate.  

Apparently Divine aren't worried about the move – even though their chocolate – unlike most Fairtrade chocolate  which is aimed at the premium market – competes directly with Dairy Milk.  They reckon that their customers will remain loyal – and that there'll be benefits for the whole fairtrade market from such a high-profile company getting in on the act.

It's an interesting one.  I remember endless debates at the fairtrade shop where I once worked about the mainstreaming of fair trade.  Is it progress if Nestle and the rest certify some of their range Fairtrade?  With caveats, I think it is.  I remember the question being asked at a public event we ran, with a tea farmer from Uganda.  His answer was simple – please do what you can to expand the market, so that we can sell more tea.  Our concerns about the motivations of the big businesses should perhaps be of secondary importance.

It'll be interesting to see the impact of Cadbury's move on Divine.  I think they're a great business so I hope they continue to do well.  I'm sure they'll respond entrepreneurially – recognising the need for a niche player to continually innovate, particularly when a big beast steps on their toes.  

I'm sure that hardcore fair trade buyers will remain loyal – but the whole point of Divine has been to reach the mass market – supermarkets, garages, sandwich bars and the like.  Cadbury would like some of that market back thank you very much.  It's up to Divine to raise their game once more.   

Four Hundred and Fifteen

Tuesday, February 17th, 2009

It's not been a good 24 hours for Leeds.  Yesterday the Council announced 450 job losses, and today I learnt that high-profile social business Fifteen will not be opening a restaurant in Leeds after all.

As a city which was lauded for its diversification from manufacturing into financial services, it's to be expected that Leeds should be hit pretty hard by the economic downturn – particularly in the financial sector. Fifteen wouldn't have been cheap – and would have relied pretty heavily on the corporate entertainment market.  

It's a real shame it's not going to happen, and must be a big blow for the developers of that part of Leeds who must have been desperate for an anchor tenant as high profile as Fifteen.

Craig Dearden-Phillips wrote at the weekend about how the recession will hit the public sector.   Things are going to be tough in the next few years – I hate to think how much budgets will be cut in order to balance the books after the last few months' bailouts.  The optimist in me says that it's a great chance for public service reform, whilst the pessimist says that the public sector will just turn inwards and we'll all take a big step backwards.  

Growth, culture and bacteria in the walls

Tuesday, February 17th, 2009

This week's Food Programme on Radio 4 gave a fascinating insight into the growing pains of one of Britain's finest cheeses – Mrs Kirkham's Lancashire.

The family firm behind the famous artisan cheese recently decided to expand from their humble farmhouse to a much-larger purpose built site.  They took on £1 million in debt and set about making plenty more cheese. The first batch tasted awful, as did the next.  Their problems went on for months.  Thankfully the first batch of 2009 saw the cheese return to form – and it's been delicious ever since.  

Cheese needs bacteria to mature.  Apparently that bacteria was living in the walls of their old place – but not in the concrete and steel of their new cheese-making facility.  They couldn't get the temperature right either – the new building was much bigger – and as a result colder.  

What a great parable for the problems that many social businesses will encounter as they grow.  Any of us who've worked for a small business which has suddenly expanded will recognise the difficulties.  Will our culture remain strong?  Will we lose the warmth we all shared back when it was just us against the world, huddled round two desks and a phone?  And that's to say nothing of the bacteria in the walls.

Their story also reminds us of the value of a mentor – in this case Randolph Hodgson from Neal's Yard Dairy.  He'd seen this loss of form happen before – so could guide the Kirkhams through what must have been a pretty frightening time.  

I've likened social enterprises to artisan cheese in the past.  The Kirkhams' tale reminds us that growth may be possible – but not without risk.  

British bacon butties for British workers

Saturday, January 31st, 2009

Two stories coincide this week to demonstrate how difficult it is to run the world in a way that is anywhere near socially and economically just.

Workers at an oil refinery in Lincolnshire went on strike in protest at Italian workers being employed on a contract – and workers have walked out in sympathy at a number of plants around the country.  

Then Jamie Oliver launched his campaign to Save Britain's Bacon.   The story there is that pig farmers in Britain are going out of business largely because they can't compete with pork and bacon produced to lower welfare standards elsewhere in the EU.

My wife was HR manager for a foodservice company for a while (that was one job where you didn't want freebies from work) and I remember that their reps only ever took one product with them into a meeting with a potential new customer – back bacon.  

Bacon – just like chicken in supermarkets – is what's called a Known Value Item.  In other words, beat the current supplier on price on bacon, and you've probably got their business.  You can be pretty sure that welfare goes out the window when you start competing on price.  

I bet you that the bacon butties in the oil refinery canteen are made with EU bacon.  Stuff the British Worker solidarity if it means paying 3p more for your breakfast rasher.  

Things really are tough for pig farmers in this country.  I know that my friends at Swillington Farm have found it hard to make much money out of their pigs for ages – it's tougher for them because organic feed has gone up in price even faster than conventional feed.  The demand's there – but the economics are really tough.  Their pork – from rare-breed pigs – is outstanding – and as Jamie said on his programme this week, if you go for the tastier cuts like shoulder or belly, it doesn't need to break the piggy bank.

Pink shoots of recovery

Wednesday, January 21st, 2009

I bought my first forced rhubarb of the year yesterday.  For those of you not in the know forced rhubarb is a bit of a Yorkshire thing – it's either grown in mysterious candle lit sheds, or, on a smaller scale, under a terracotta cloche.  The darkness tricks the plant  into working harder to find a source of light – and in the process forces up  beautiful, delicate light-pink sticks of rhubarb.  When I see the first rhubarb of the season, it reminds me that winter will eventually come to an end.

It's important to look for signs of hope at the moment.  I noticed yesterday that the local butcher is expanding into the shop next door.  He works so hard at running a good shop, serving his customers well, and I'm really pleased for him.  It reminds me that the best businesses, which put their customers first, will survive the economic downturn.

You can't help but feel hope with Obama now in post.  Much has been written elsewhere, and there's been plenty of comment about a slightly subdued inauguration speech.  I too wanted the soundbite.  But this was a speech by a man who knows that he won't do it alone.  We can't abdicate responsibility to one man to sort out the mess we're in.  His message is clear – those of us who have more all have to live differently if we're going to make the world a better place to live in.  That is a massive challenge to us all.  Let's hope he can keep communicating that message – and that we keep listening, and take more action locally.  

One reason recessions are good – bad restaurants go bust

Monday, November 10th, 2008

There's plenty that can be difficult in an economic downturn, so it's worth trying to look on the bright side wherever you can.  

Bad restaurants, pubs and cafes are second only to sellers of obscure financial products in their use of language to obscure the truth and screw you for all your hard-earned cash.  I'm sure there must be a book out there which explains all the ways you can add perceived value to dishes on a menu, whilst actually adding no value at all.  Liberal use of words like "home-cooked", "our very own..", "specially selected" can make a menu look appealing – and add 30% to the price.  Then there's the "us-too" dishes – Foodservice rubbish full of palm oil and preservatives which is poor imitation of proper, well-cooked food.   

You might have guessed that I've had a couple of bad eating-out experiences in the last couple of weeks. One of the places I went to had the word sublime in its name.  It had some marketing guff with a dictionary definition of sublime – something about causing an emotional reaction in an individual.  They certainly did that.  

Anyway, it may sound a bit callous, but there are some businesses out there that we're all better off without.  And surely that must be true for the third sector as much as any other.   I do what I do because I want a better society. I do that in part by working with organisations to help them to stick around so they can create change.  I don't do it so that they can stick around full stop.  

I  know it's not a very popular thing to say but there are some highly uninspiring third sector organisations out there who haven't thought beyond their own survival for years.  Will it be the end of the world if some of them fold in the next few years?  I doubt it.  Of course, economics and funding regimes aren't always logical or fair – and some good organisations will unjustly go to the wall.  But I bet there'll be plenty of others where, three months down the line, hardly anyone will remember that they were there in the first place.